Wednesday, March 20, 2024

March 20. Christchurch. Cruise Day 5.

This is the second time I am writing today's post... The first time didn't save for some stupid reason...

Anyways, today we ported in Dunedin, near Christchurch. It is our first of two stops on the South Island of New Zealand. We had a tour booked that gave an overview of the city in the morning and an afternoon wine tour.

We started our day, as always, grabbing a quick breakfast at the buffet, eating it outside overlooking the back of the ship, and then heading ashore. This was yet another industrial port that we had to jump on a shuttle to get to the city, but it was less than a five minute ride away.

We met Di, our tour guide and two other passengers for the city tour. 

Di started out by giving us general Christchurch information. It is called Canterbury Plains because it is so flat, and indeed it is the flattest place we have seen in New Zealand so far. She also told us a lot about the earthquakes that have reshaped Christchurch.

On September 11th, 2010 a 7.1 magnitude earthquake hit at 4am. There were no deaths, but a lot of what was described as "Liquifaction" occurred... silt and dirty water shooting up from the earth creating swampy wet land that houses sunk in to. Basically it causes the soil to act more like a liquid during an earthquake.

Then on February 22nd, 2011 a devastating 6.3 earthquake hit at 12:35pm with a force that sent a wave over Christchurch. Buildings fell, earth and dust shot up, and 185 people died. This was an aftershock from the previous earthquake, but due to the severity they decided to just call it an earthquake. In the following year, there were 11,000 additional aftershocks. 1,000 homes out of about 16,000 were lost. Many buildings continued to lose parts due to the aftershocks. The government evacuated the city for two years while assessments were done. People are still fighting with their insurance companies to pay them for their losses. New buildings can't be more than seven stories tall.

Di said the Christchurch of today isn't the city she grew up knowing. It is almost entirely new build, and hopefully will be completely rebuilt and recovered in 20 more years so she can see it in her lifetime. The downtown now is a mix of modern buildings, with buildings that are still being knocked down or worked on, even after all these years.

She was funny when we were driving around, pointing out the "seagulls", who were the parking enforcement workers. She said when she worked in an office someone would shout "seagulls coming" and everyone would run out to move their car or plug the meter.

She also told us a story that someone is bringing a scooter into the botanical gardens and stealing flowers... they just stole 160 tulip bulbs. She said yesterday when she was touring the gardens someone was writing a news story about it, and sure enough, at one of our stops later in the day she had a newspaper her husband told her to get that had her pic with the story.


Another thing I haven't mentioned is that they kill all undesired animals in New Zealand... rats, possums, rabbits, etc. They find them and kill them. Di told a story about possums. She said her husband will put peanut butter on a tree and then a possum will come and eat it and then go tell all his possum friends about it. Then, the next night, her husband puts peanut butter with a cyanide pill on many trees, all the possums come and eat it and then the husband bonks them on the head and knocks them out. Then they pluck their fur before they die because that's the only time you can do it. I guess the point of this story is just to illustrate that they are living very different lives here in New Zeland than I do!

After we looked over Christchurch we headed into town and stopped at Mona Vale Garden Park. It was beautiful, and a little weird because leaves were starting to change colors and blow off trees... Fall in March, only had to come half way around the world to see it.


Continuing our city tour, we saw new modern buildings, the Cardboard Chapel that is standing temporarily (for the last 10 years) until earthquake damage and reinforcement repairs can be complete on the historical church. 

Di said the city government had graffiti and other artists paint huge murals on buildings to raise people's spirits after the earthquakes. They also installed many shipping containers to both protect people from falling debris and get people to reopen little shops and bring life back to town.


After about two hours of touring the city we stopped to pick up additional passengers for the wine portion. We ended up with six Americans from the cruise ship, four Aussies and a couple from Wales. It was an awesome group. We headed to the countryside and went three places. But almost all the wine we tasted was white (not my favorite) and fruity. I preferred the Napier wines a few days ago. But we had So. Much. Fun. As Kory said, "sometimes it's about the wine, sometimes it's about the company."

The first place we stopped was "The Amberley Hotel". It was odd. It was just a wine shop in a little city and "the guy who usually does the tastings isn't available". So they had a poor waitress who was very nice just reading the notes. She and everyone got giggly when she was struggling saying tempranillo. 


Next up we went to "Waipara Springs". This was a lovely vineyard. We tasted six wines in one area outside and then they seated us in the garden for a plated lunch. The lunch had too many strange and seafood things on it, but it was perfect weather and so fun talking with everyone.


Our third and last stop was "Torlesse Vinyards". We ended this one with the first white port wine we've seen. Kory likes ports here and there. They are too sweet for me. People were getting tipsy and hilarious. By this point we had tried about 20 wines and had overfull glasses with lunch. 


Our tasting host was from France and people were asking her questions. She has been in New Zealand for seven years. We had noticed earlier that none of the New Zealand wines have corks, they are all twist offs. She said she took some wine home with her and her dad told her "Between you and me, you make crap wine, shitty tops". It is funny how this is a generational thing. I don't think any less of a wine with a synthetic cork or twist off top.


We had about an hour drive back to the city after the tastings and the minibus was loud and rambunctious. It was so fun to make friends for a day!


We got back to the ship at about 5pm and headed to the room. Kory rested and I worked on the blog.

We had a dinner reservation for Teppanyaki. I am not a fan, but Kory likes it. The food is always fine, it is just the getting it part... It's a big corny show of the chef making the food, making jokes, singing, creating a scene right in getting of you, and it is SO LOUD it hurts my brain. But my shrimp, chicken and fried rice were great once we started eating.

After dinner, we watched the main theatre show, "Blazing Boots". It was a great production, though I didn't know most of the songs. There was a live band on stage, 10 dancers and four singers.

Another great day!


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